IRBID, UMM QAYS, AL-HIMMA & PELLA

IRBID
Jordan's second largest city is situated at an equal distance from Pella and Umm Qays, and is a bustling community with a large university. Though not an important city for sightseeing, Irbid houses two very worthwhile museums, and forms a good base from which to explore the northern Jordan Valley or to start a trip to Syria.

In addition to Jarash and Amman, Gadara (modern Umm Qays) and Pella (known as Tabaqat Fahl) were once Decapolis cities, and each has unique appeal.

UMM QAYS (GADARA)
Site of the famous miracle of the Gadarene swine, Gadara was renowned in its time as a cultural centre. It was the home of several classical poets and philosophers, including Theodorus, founder of a rhetorical school in Rome; one poet called the city "a new Athens". Perched on a splendid hilltop overlooking the Jordan Valley and the Sea of Galilee, Umm Qays boasts an impressive colonnaded terrace and the ruins of two theatres. You can take in the sights and then dine on the terrace of a fine restaurant with a breathtaking view of three countries.

AL-HIMMA
Therapeutical hot springs located about 10 km north of Umm Qays and highly regarded by the Romans. There are two bathing facilities: a privately run, high quality complex and a public bath complex with separate timetables for men and women.

PELLA (TABAQAT FAHL)
A favourite of archaeologists - it is exceptionally rich in antiquities, some of which are exceedingly old. Besides the excavated ruins from the Graeco-Roman period, including an Odeon (theatre), Pella offers visitors the opportunity to see the remains of a Chalcolithic settlement from the 4th millennium BC, the remains of Bronze and Iron Age walled cities, Byzantine churches and houses, an Early Islamic residential quarter, and a small medieval mosque.

WHAT TO SEE
Irbid houses two important museums:
Archaeological Museum of the Department of Antiquities, tel. (02) 7277066. Hours 08:00-14:00, closed Fri. Admission fee is 1 JD.
Institute of Anthropology & Archaeology, Yarmouk University, Irbid, tel. (02) 7271100. Opens daily except Friday.
Umm Qays: the main sights are the ruins of the Roman city, with its Western Theatre, colonnaded street, mausoleum and baths. Umm Qays Museum in an Ottoman building contains artefacts, mosaics and statuary. Hours 08:00-17:00, closed Tues. Visitors' Centre tel. (02) 7500238.

Pella: there are many interesting archaeological sites, many of them still under excavation. Important are the 6th century West Church, 6th century Civic Complex Church, 1st century Odeon (Theatre), Roman Nyphaeum and East Church.

WHERE TO EAT In Irbid:

In Umm Qays:
Umm Qays Rest House (Romero), tel. (02) 7500555. Wonderful Arabic food and spectacular views. Reservation advised.

In Pella:
Pella Rest House (Romero), tel. (02) 6560899, or mobile (079) 5547145. Just above the ruins, reservation advised.

WHERE TO STAY
Al-Joud, three star hotel in Irbid, tel. (02) 7275515 fax (02) 7275517.

HOW TO GET THERE
Allow around l½ hours to get from Amman to Pella or Umm Qays via Irbid. A good idea is to start by exploring Jarash and its magnificent ruins then continue north.

By car or taxi: From the Sport City interchange in Amman, head northwest past JordanUniversity.

By bus: JETT, tel. 5664146, offers a regular service in air-conditioned coaches from Amman to Irbid. Hijazi, tel. (06) 4651341, offers services every fifteen minutes. Trust International, tel. (06) 5813422, offers services from Aqaba to Irbid departing each of the two cities at 08:30h and 15:30h.