AJLOUN

A short journey west from Jarash, through pine forest and olive groves, brings you to the town of Ajloun. Here is Ajloun Castle (also known as Qal'at [Castle] ar-Rabad), which was built in 1184 by 'Izz ad-Din Usama bin Munqidh, a nephew of Saladin, who defeated the Crusaders in 1189.

A fine example of Islamic architecture, the fortress dominated a wide stretch of the northern Jordan Valley and passages to it. From its hilltop position, Ajloun Castle protected the communication routes between south Jordan and Syria, and was one of a chain of forts, which lit beacons at night to pass signals from the Euphrates as far as Cairo.

Today, Ajloun Castle is a splendid sight and a fascinating warren of towers, chambers, galleries and staircases to explore, while its hilltop position offers a stupendous view of the Jordan Valley.

WHAT TO SEE
Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad), open 09:00-17:00 daily, tel. (02) 6420956. Admission fee is 1 JD.

Ajloun Visitors' Centre, (02) 6420115

WHERE TO EAT
Ajloun Rest House (Bonita), tel. (02) 6420981

UMM AL-JIMAL
Further east lies Umm al-Jimal - the so-called "Black Gem of the Desert" - once a town on the margins of the Decapolis. Rural and well to do, it was a fitting contrast to the surrounding busy cities. Its lovely black basalt mansions and towers, some still standing three storeys high, have long inspired poets.

For assistance call the
Visitors' Centre, tel. (02) 6267040.

HOW TO GET THERE
By car or taxi: From Amman take the Zarqa-Mafraq highway and follow the signs. Allow one and a half hours to get to Umm al-Jimal, which is approximately l20 km away from the capital.